Funchal is the capital of Madeira — a Portuguese archipelago of volcanic islands in the Atlantic, about 900 kilometers from the Portuguese mainland and closer to Morocco than to Lisbon. It appears on VV’s transatlantic repositioning sailings between New York and Barcelona, typically as the second European landfall after the Azores. Madeira is one of the great under-the-radar travel destinations in the world: dramatic cliff scenery, extraordinary food and wine, botanical gardens of world-class caliber, and a hiking infrastructure through levada (irrigation channel) trails that is genuinely extraordinary.
The name Madeira means “wood” in Portuguese — the island was once covered in dense forest that the Portuguese settlers largely cleared in the 15th and 16th centuries to grow sugar cane. What remains is a terraced agricultural landscape on precipitous cliffs above the Atlantic, and a culture that has been producing one of the world’s great fortified wines for 500 years.
Funchal Old Town and the Mercado dos Lavradores
Funchal’s old town (Zona Velha) is compact, walkable, and genuinely charming — painted door murals on every surface (an ongoing public art project covering all the old town doors in original artwork), excellent seafood restaurants at reasonable prices, and the Mercado dos Lavradores (Farmers’ Market) — a covered market of extraordinary visual and olfactory richness. Local fishermen bring black scabbardfish (espada), the deep-water fish that defines Madeiran cuisine; flower vendors arrange tropical displays; and passion fruit, custard apples, and dragon fruit fill the produce stalls.
Monte Cable Car and Toboggan
The cable car from the old town waterfront to Monte — a hilltop village above Funchal with tropical gardens and a church containing the tomb of Emperor Charles I of Austria — offers extraordinary views over the city and harbor. From Monte, the carreiros do Monte — traditional wicker toboggan sleds piloted by white-uniformed carreiros who brake the sled with rubber-soled boots — make a 2-kilometer descent back toward the city. It is not fast, it is not dramatic, and it is one of the most uniquely Madeiran things you can do.
Levada Walking
Madeira’s network of levadas — narrow irrigation channels cut into the cliffs to carry water from the wet northern slopes to the dry southern farmland — forms the basis of one of the best walking trail networks in Europe. The paths alongside the levadas traverse the island at mid-elevation, crossing ravines on narrow bridges and passing through tunnels cut through cliff faces. The Levada do Caldeirão Verde in the north is the most celebrated route — a four-hour return walk through the UNESCO-listed Laurisilva forest, the largest surviving ancient laurel forest in the world. Book a guided levada walk through VV Shore Things.
Madeira Wine
Madeira wine is one of the great fortified wines of the world, produced on the island since the 15th century using a unique aging method (estufagem) that heats the wine, mimicking the effect of long sea voyages in tropical holds. The historic wine lodges in Funchal — Blandy’s and the Henriques & Henriques lodge — offer excellent guided tastings. A glass of 20-year-old Bual or a 10-year Verdelho in a centuries-old lodge is one of the genuinely civilized pleasures of the European leg of any transatlantic VV sailing.
Monte’s Religious History and Toboggan Heritage
Monte hosts the Church of Our Lady of Monte, the spiritual center to which Madeiran pilgrims still climb on their knees on August 15th every year, and where the tomb of Emperor Charles I of Austria rests. The wicker toboggan run has been operating continuously since 1850 — among the most distinctive heritage experiences in the Portuguese world, and a tradition that has survived the cable car, the automobile, and modern tourism without losing its character.
Insider Tips from Joel and Erin
- The Mercado dos Lavradores is best in the morning. The fish market is at its most active between 7-11am. By afternoon it’s winding down.
- Eat espada — the black scabbardfish. The local signature dish, served with banana and passion fruit sauce, is unlike anything else in Portuguese cuisine. Every restaurant in the old town serves it.
- Madeira wine tastings at Blandy’s lodge are exceptional. The lodge on Avenida Arriaga is one of the oldest wine operations in the world. The guided tasting includes wines ranging from a 5-year Sercial to aged Malmsey. Budget an hour.
Ready to Discover Madeira?
As certified First Mates, Joel and Erin can help you book the transatlantic sailing that includes Funchal — one of the most distinctive port calls in the VV European network.
Book your Virgin Voyages cruise at CruisePlanner.pro — and discover why Madeira is the great European secret
